Brun Maska & Irani Chai |
With breakfast at a humble place like Kayani & Co. came a super surprise in the form of Brun Maska and Irani Chai. On the surface the humble bun looks pretty harmless but the generous spread of yellow melting butter threatens. Reality check: a sip of Irani chai makes the fear fade into oblivion and you are back in your bubble. The combination is unmatchable and if you don’t believe me, here’s a look on the left. Mr. Baghdadi gave us a brief of the history of Iranian café’s in India and how this particular café began its existence. I looked around at the humility of the place that transported me back into the history and I was glad I was eager to learn more about similar places.
Keema Pav and Raspberry drink |
Our next stop was at the Military Café, another humble Iranian café in a tiny alley close to Kitaab Ghar at Flora Fountain. As soon as we entered the café, the mellow fragrance of freshly baked bread filled our nostrils. We settled ourselves down to absorb the naturally welcoming place, which had entry at two points. The owners of the place played the perfect hosts by chatting up with us and understanding our requirements. This kind of natural customer engagement is pretty unheard/unseen at the new age joints. It was immensely comforting. And when one of my friends mentioned the similarity in the checkered tablecloths with glass tabletops like the ones we had noticed at Kyani & Co., I found a sense of familiarity wave inside me. I could connect with it immediately. And then while I was soaking in the moment, I smelt something that instantly made me salivate. Here I was looking at Keema Pav and I could have cried with joy just at the sight itself. If you don’t believe me, well I have a proof here. The ‘raspberry’ on the top was unparalleled. Coke, Pepsi, Thumbs Up, Limca….please take a back seat.
Mr. Boman Kohinoor proudly displaying his connect with the Queen |
After a stomach filed with just the best food I have had in a long long time, there was no way I could have felt any excited to hit the next destination. When Mr. Baghdadi suggested that we could take a taxi there, all of us nodded in negative immediately. We all needed to get our appetite back for the famous Berry Pulav so we all walked. The scorching sun over our head did most of the trick by making us faintly and tired by the time we reached Britannia & Co. Mr. Boman Kohinoor, the owner, welcomed us all and placed us at a big table that could comfortably accommodate us all and then began filling us in with the stories of his association with the Queen of England. He also proudly produced evidences to show his connect with the Empire even after 60 years of independence. This 90-year-old young man did not cease to spread the joy his stories brought and went around the café chatting at each table and sharing his fluffly jokes. A person so full of life at this age only made me smile and feel inspired by him.
Berry Pulav with Salli Boti in the background |
Lagnu na Custard (Caramel Custard) |
Piya Bose from Girls On The Go spearheaded our tour of the cafes in association with International Social Media Week (SMW) to create awareness on the sleepy Iranian cafes in the city that are finding it tough to pace up with modernity and are soon dying. Though I can hardly understand why! The food is good (that’s an understatement), the prices are reasonable and the service is immaculate. Through this post I urge you all to make a visit to the places mentioned above and witness for yourself a taste, I promise, is unmatched elsewhere.
Disclaimer: All pictures used in the post belong to the author and may not be used by anyone in any form without prior permission
Wow! Have seen your pics about this Heritage Walk on Facebook and am so glad that you shared the story behind it too. What an experience it must have been… Super like 🙂
It sure was, Shilpa. This was I guess one of the best memories i will always have of Mumbai. Thanks for liking 🙂
Looks and sounds like it was super fun. Your post made me hungry 🙂
It was a memorable day. Aptly summed up Kajal.
It was super fun, Nischala. What are you saying- I was salivating writing this stuff 🙂
It sure was, Janaki…we must do this again 🙂
Thanks so much for coming for the event Kajal. Great to know you had a blast and that the trip took you down the paths of nostalgia 🙂 Here is to many more!
Tasty trip, both for the taste buds and senses! I saw the other photos on Facebook. Lovely!
Sounds like you had a wonderful time and got a full belly for your trouble. My kind of outing! ♥
You have not just made me lust after all that food but also pay Mumbai a visit soon. Delicious post, Kajal.
Your description of your food walk is so expressive that I actually felt as if I were part of your group. Lovely pictures too.
My mouth is watering reading the post and seeing all the pics. The caramel custard looks delicious.
Thanks Piya…hope to have some more soon 🙂
Thanks Vidya…it was indeed lovely
Ya, sure did Kathy! And of course who does'nt want a generous dose of some authentic kind of food
So come over to Mumbai Sakshi…I will take you there 🙂
Oh Cynthia, you should have been there…it was awesome 🙂
I was salivating writing this Diana….the custard was so appealing I had it on a full tummy 🙂 😉
I wonder why these cafes aren't doing well. Is it their location? The young folks might still love their junk food better but why aren't other folks frequenting these places more often? In Delhi, as you probably know, the old time eating joints of Old Delhi and Connaught Place still thrive…as much as the swanky new ones. Great essay. I was looking forward to this after having seen the pictures you folks had posted sometime back.
I have lived half my life in Bombay.The best Irani,after Kayani was the one at Churchgate.
These cafes are not doing good because young people do not visit them often and do not enjoy the humble meals. Plus these cafes are still run in a very traditional fashion, though some people love a hint of nostalgia, others prefer modernity. That's the cause, otherwise I think these are decently well placed but people don't know much about them. Like the other day we were looking for Military Cafe in Flora fountain and some of the people we asked there did not know about it. Its really sad :(Thanks for liking the post. Please do visit these cafes when you visit Mumbai!
I loved Britannia & Co. as well 🙂 Very nice food
I think I need to plan something like this in Lucknow too. Seems like a very good idea. Delhi heritage walk is already doing very well. And this is probably the first time I am seeing something similar with respect to Mumbai. And the pictures speak of the foodies fun you all had 😀 Richa
Reading your post is making me hungry. The Iranian cafes are slowly being replaced by modern hotel or restaurants or pizza eating joints.
Brings back a nostalgia of all the times exploring these places in Mumbai:) You should have tried Rustomji ice cream opposite Hotel Ambassador too:) A grand finale assured:)
Love the review and pics of Yummy Food. Gosh! You brought back the nostalgic times when I was studying at the library-Rajabhai Tower- and my walk with the ex and most of the times, alone at Fort. I've been to military cafe quite a few times. You making me cry now. Amazing Mumbai. Btw, have u tried tea at the tapdi outside Mumbai univ, it's amazing:)
Ya we all did! Richa, something like this must be done in cities with a legacy so that the culture is passed on to the next generation. Thanks!
Yes, they are, Kalpana and its really sad because the food is really nice and pretty affordable too
Next time I am trying the Rustomji ice cream too, then. I had no idea about it till now…thanks 🙂
That's right Vishal…it is amazing. So much in store at the city to see and live. Glad you liked the post as much!